LearnGospelMusic.com Community
Gospel Instruments => Bass Guitar => Topic started by: bassksun on August 05, 2008, 12:59:25 PM
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First-Praise God from whom All Blessings flow!
These are my basses I made for me. Why? Because I can! Some are more successful than others. The real dogs are not shown. Thanks to Tim at Callowhill for his encouragement and help!
I gotta testify...
I grew up with an alcoholic father. He did not want me to be a musician. I think he wanted me to play football... ::) He would hide my borrowed basses and never give me money to buy one. In fact, all $ went to liquor (ya'll know the story). At 17 my mother bought me a 1984 Fender Precision. But drug addiction and a mismanaged life took that. In 1999 I bought a Peavey...didn't like the sound and an LTD fretless...didn't like the feel or sound. Cheopo Basses. Sooo...In 2001 my wife bought me a SX 75JB-C for our anniversary and I started modding. I couldn't stop. I got hooked. Around this time I started to pray for more direction in my life. I mean REALLY PRAY! I could feel the demon of drug addiction risin ' up. A little voice said, "Make your own bass. The one you've always wanted." I did. Including most of the necks. God is still fulfilling my life in ALL areas.
Please bear with my photos...not so good at it.
This is a newborn not finished yet.
4 string Walnut Top
Walnut/Redwood Back
Maple Neck
SD MM pup/Matching Walnut pup cover
1980 MM clone EQ
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/bass_1000.JPG)(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/bass_1001.JPG)
Stanley III I've redone this bass 3 times. It was my first made from just wood.
5 string
Semi Hollow
Mahogany/Maple body
Zebra wood top
MM Bartolini 5 pup/5 position switch
Aguilar OPB-1 Pre
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/bass_1002.JPG)(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/bass_1003.JPG)
Rickenbacker inspired...my fave for church
5 str. Fretless
Maple neck
Cocobolo fret board/MOP inlay.
Flamed Maple top
Poplar/Coco/maple body
Passive
Bart neck pup
Unknown MM replacement pup...but it sounds goood for $17!
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/bass_1004.JPG)(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/bass_1005.JPG)
5str Hidden Neck through Fretless
Mahogany Fretboard
Maple/Lyptus/Maple Neck
Flamed Koa top
Splated Mango Back
Delano Hybrids
Delano PreAmp
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/bass_1006.JPG)(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/bass_1007.JPG)
This used to be the SX 75JB-C! It is a SLAP MONSTER!
5str
Bart JB set
SD Pre Amp
Original SX neck (heh heh)
Quilted Maple Top
Ash/Maple Body
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/bass_1008.JPG)(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/bass_1009.JPG)
Wifey. Made this cuz I luv baby's momma.
5str Fretless
Maple/Cocobolo/Mahagony/... neck
Brazilian Rosewoon FB with maple inlay
Spalted Maple Top
Ash Body
Nordstrand MM pups
Aguilar OPB-1 Pre
Phase switches
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/bass_1010.JPG)(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/bass_1011.JPG)
Q Retro Gibson. Like the one I borrowed and my Dad used to hide. My brother and I used to laugh about it. So it's named after my brother. Looks great in an Alt Band setting.
4str
Ash Body
Flamed Maple cover
Maple Neck
Reverend Pups
Passive
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/bass_1012.JPG)(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/bass_1013.JPG)
Maria Speaking of family. My daughter asked me to make her one "in case" she wants to play when she gets older. Purple is her color. Rock and Roll Child.
4 string
Fender Allparts Precision Maple Neck
Flamed Maple Top
Quilted Maple Back
SD Basslines Precision pup
Reverend Bridge PupFlamed
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/bass_1014.JPG)(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/bass_1015.JPG)
Moses I EUB (My Dad's middle name.) The new direction. This is my first try at an Electric Upright Bass. So it is a "concept". Shoulda seen the congregation when I pulled this out! ;D Another is on the drawing board.
5str
Hollow Body
Mahogany/Maple/ Neck
Pau Ferro FB/Maple inlays
Mahogany/Poplar Body
Sitka Spruce Top
34" Bass Scale
Adjustable Ebony Bridge
K&K Big Twin Piezo Transducers
Bartolini Neck Pup
Bartolini Mag/Piezo Mixer Pre-Amp
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/bass_1016.JPG)(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/bass_1017.JPG)
I don't want to take up anymore space so I won't place pics of any of the others. This will give you an idea of what's up. If you have any questions and would like to learn how to make your own or Mod your under $300 bass drop me a line.
God is Love. Love Yourself.
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Uh oh! Regarding that modded SX............you just may have started your own bass modding business! That bass looks hot! I bet you'll get a ton of calls from folks wanting mods who don't want to do it themselves! You need to join and post that up over at Talkbass.com!
All your basses look marvelous! I like them all. I'm a certified Jazz bass lover and just may buy an SX for you to mod for me! You see how God works!
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Uh oh! Regarding that modded SX............you just may have started your own bass modding business! That bass looks hot! I bet you'll get a ton of calls from folks wanting mods who don't want to do it themselves! You need to join and post that up over at Talkbass.com!
All your basses look marvelous! I like them all. I'm a certified Jazz bass lover and just may buy an SX for you to mod for me! You see how God works!
I wouldn't do it overthere. Not to slam TB...I have been a member there for years. Haters abound once you get to a certain level. I stick with the Christians. And the ummm..."homeys".
LGM...NOW thats a different story...just lemme know when.
Thanks for the kind comments.
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Now that Stanley III is HOTTTT!!!! :o I like that alot. I like them all but that one is HOTTT!!! :o
I may call on you to build me one. ;D
Rob
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hey bassksun ... don't stop testifying ... that's how you continually overcome!!!
May those are some sweet lookn basses ... my eyes got stuck on the upright ;D
stay creative!
~LadyBass
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Now that Stanley III is HOTTTT!!!! :o I like that alot. I like them all but that one is HOTTT!!! :o
I may call on you to build me one. ;D
Rob
Thank You for the comment.
Finally, it has the definitive BKS sound I envisioned 2 years ago. PTL!
Only for LGM.
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hey bassksun ... don't stop testifying ... that's how you continually overcome!!!
May those are some sweet lookn basses ... my eyes got stuck on the upright ;D
stay creative!
~LadyBass
Amen.
It's smiling at you.
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nice looking basses there buddy, i definately need some route work on one of my basses. hope you like being bothered ;D .
peace
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im really instrested in learning the craft of making bass guitars. the wiffy is to sweet!
peace ken!
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nice looking basses there buddy, i definately need some route work on one of my basses. hope you like being bothered ;D .
peace
LGM members OK all others NO!
GILove
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im really instrested in learning the craft of making bass guitars. the wiffy is to sweet!
peace ken!
I'll put together a list of links for a sticky and maybe a tutorial on doing it the BKS way: 3 weeks from wood to varnish.
Peace
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I also would like to know how to build my own bass, been trying to learn for the longest. I even got a book man that book told me nothing at all. I wasted my money I just need to know where to look.
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Ok. I'm starting a new bass next week. So I'll post pics AND links to other folks as well. This will be a neck-through fretless 4 "budget" bass. I'm going for exceptional sound for under $300 in materials. I'm off for 2 weeks so now is the best time.
God is good all the time...
All the time God is good!
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I'll put together a list of links for a sticky and maybe a tutorial on doing it the BKS way: 3 weeks from wood to varnish.
Peace
3 weeks, you gots to post a sticky with materials needed and where to begin!!!! I've always wanted to try to build my own bass, with a budget. If you know how to build a singlecut, please post how. I love the love of those basses.
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Man, you do some good work!
I don't know much about "luthiering" but I tried my hand at it once; I found peices here and there and had to tweak them to make them fit together. I thought it turned out decent.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn109/monivince/before.jpg (http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn109/monivince/before.jpg)
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn109/monivince/during.jpg (http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn109/monivince/during.jpg)
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn109/monivince/after.jpg (http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn109/monivince/after.jpg)
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn109/monivince/after2.jpg (http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn109/monivince/after2.jpg)
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn109/monivince/after4.jpg (http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn109/monivince/after4.jpg)
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn109/monivince/after2-1.jpg (http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn109/monivince/after2-1.jpg)
Since then, I accumulated enough parts for another one that I started (that I haven't worked on in a few weeks). When I get back to it, I got some paint, finish, and fretboard questions to ask.
One question, have you ever tried to convert a P-bass into a P/J-bass?
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3 weeks, you gots to post a sticky with materials needed and where to begin!!!! I've always wanted to try to build my own bass, with a budget. If you know how to build a singlecut, please post how. I love the love of those basses.
I haven't done a single cut yet. They don't really move me. Definately not for the beginner though. Its an easy shift from a double-cut. Not really extra work just extra design.
Yep. There is a brother in Philly...not Tim...that is faster than that.
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I definitely down for developing patients with a build. I just have to get my hands on a single cut 6 strings. I won't be satisfied until that happens.
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I thought it turned out decent.
One question, have you ever tried to convert a P-bass into a P/J-bass?
Yes it did turn very good! I really like the colors. Is that the original pup?
PBasses are fun to work on. I think it is the best design ever...well, it IS the first design ever.
Yes the Maria is a P/J. I know my photos are bad.
Started out as a PBass found on EBay for $20. Chopped, channel, shaved, top and back $50. Purple dye and black dye $40. Reverend Basses in Detroit was selling off all of their bass stuff: $15 for the JBass Bridge pup. Bassline P pup $30. Allparts neck another EBay score new $60. Pearl Pickguard $25. Pearl top knobs $15. Black Tuners...scored for $40 :) Black bridge $25. (I have issues about expensive bridges.) A whole bass for under $300 and I get to use the dyes again. Add $125 for an Audere or Aggie Pre-Amp and it would be treacherous. But it is a PBass. The classic sound is passive.
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I definitely down for developing patients with a build. I just have to get my hands on a single cut 6 strings. I won't be satisfied until that happens.
I have a 6 string slated for around Christmas time. That is a serious and expensive build.
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Is that the original pup?
Nah, the only thing original was the body and pots. I found the neck (with tuners) at a local guitar store for $60. The items I had to buy were the pups (SD 1/4 lbs,) pick guard, knobs and bridge - all from www.victorlitz.com (http://www.victorlitz.com). This guy was the only one I found that takes the NAMM credit card; he even ordered stuff from other sites for me (Stew-Mac & Mighty Mite)
Got another question; I got and old Squier neck where someone pulled out the frets (I guess they wanted a fretless). I got some new frets to replace them but the fretboard wood is splintered on both sides of the fret slot. What can be done to fill in the wood to where the color blends with the rosewood fretboard?
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Nah, the only thing original was the body and pots. I found the neck (with tuners) at a local guitar store for $60. The items I had to buy were the pups (SD 1/4 lbs,) pick guard, knobs and bridge - all from [url=http://www.victorlitz.com]www.victorlitz.com[/url] ([url]http://www.victorlitz.com[/url]). This guy was the only one I found that takes the NAMM credit card; he even ordered stuff from other sites for me (Stew-Mac & Mighty Mite)
Got another question; I got and old Squier neck where someone pulled out the frets (I guess they wanted a fretless). I got some new frets to replace them but the fretboard wood is splintered on both sides of the fret slot. What can be done to fill in the wood to where the color blends with the rosewood fretboard?
Super Glue Medium or Gel and a small bar clamp. 220 and 400 sand paper and lemon oil.
If it is splintered and not lost- super glue it-bar clamp it or tape it in place. Sand with 220 or 400. DO NOT WATERSAND! It will raise the grain of a fb.
Rosewood has dark striping so it should blend ok. Oil the whole fb to bring out the color.
Let's move to a new thread. Bass Building.
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AWESOME!!! I thought all the basses you displayed were out of sight! The Lord has really blessed you, thanks for sharing these with the 'homies' here at LGM.
BossRon
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Ask Bassksun about bass building!!
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Boss-
Thanks for the kind words!
God's People are my 'homies'!
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What is Bassksun
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<--------------Even the noob is excited! =P
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What is Bassksun
more like "WHO" ...LOL :D
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I'm not a bassist, but I certainly was blessed by your testimony, and for what it's worth from my untrained eye, you do great work! God is really awesome, and your story illustrates that yet again.
Be blessed!
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Whoa!!! I am sooo blessed by ya'll!! A chance to give to the faithful!!!
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Did you engage God today? Study the Word? Pray for the World?
As requested I'll show how to build a simple, good looking, affordable bass. We should come in under $300 for materials. Also, I'll post links to other's work.
BE WARNED! There are as many techniques as there are builders. I am going to build the most affordable and quickest way! Fast does not mean crappy. Your bass will be sweet. So, I'll take a lot of the mystery out. I've been a teacher and college instructor for 25 years. No fancy luthier language.
Disclaimer: I will not argue or flame the merits of someone else's work. I will not argue about the "best" technique. I will not argue about which wood gives a certain tone. I will not get into a my router is better than your router because it costs $15,000.
The biggest expense will be in tools. But, you can get the tools you need from Home Depot, Sears and Lowes. If you can borrow tools even better!
These are the MINIMUM tools needed
Router and/or Router Table
Drill Press
Hand Drill
Band Saw (a jig saw will do BUT your life will be difficult)
Body Clamps and C-Clamps. You are going to need a minimum of 6 body and 12 c-clamps.
Orbital Sander
Imagination
Patience
Useful links: I'll update as needed.
Talkbass Luthiers Corner (Careful. It's easy to get overwhelmed in there.)
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=57 (http://www.talkbass.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=57)
Rose W.- This brother has good work and tutorials. Guitar yes, but still applies.
http://www.exit45.com/guitar (http://www.exit45.com/guitar)
Musical Instrument Makers Forum
http://mimf.com/cgi-bin/WebX?14@222.bGH5adVgw2z.2@/ (http://mimf.com/cgi-bin/WebX?14@222.bGH5adVgw2z.2@/)
Guitar Project
http://projectguitar.com/ (http://projectguitar.com/)
Stew Mac-The Center for everything!
http://www.stewmac.com/ (http://www.stewmac.com/)
Luthiers Mercantile-Friendly and good prices.
http://www.lmii.com/default.asp (http://www.lmii.com/default.asp)
Be Blessed.
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8/7/08
Empowered Bass (Acts 1:8)
Step 1 is THE most important. This step will make or break.
Use your imagination! This is where you plan your bass. I used to have 3 or 4 pages of sketches. I can now get happy with one.
Don't think you can draw? Try it anyway. Absolutely can not draw? Cut out a picture from a magazine. Not your cup of tea? Just want a P or a J Bass? You will get help in Steps 2 and 3.
Here are my sketches.
http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/emp1.jpg (http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/emp1.jpg)
I am going with this body and head.
http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/emp1a.jpg (http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/emp1a.jpg)
Tonight I'm going think about the FINISHED bass. What will this sketch look like when the bass is completely done.
Next; Step 2: From Sketch to Plan
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8/8/08
"Are you on the alter/stage to lead others in worship or are you there to lead yourself in entertaining?"
This where you see your creation come alive! I thought about "Empowered" and I want it to be red with a quilted or striped maple top, ash back, laminated neck with a "reddish" wood...yeah that'll be sweet. Because this is a neck through the back will look extra slick. But before I do any wood buying I have to deal with this Step 2.
Tools:
Yardstick, pencil, eraser and a Sharpie.
Band Saw or Jig Saw
Materials:
5/16" or 1/2" thick Particle Board At least 28" x 36"
Go to HD or Lowes and get particle board. You CANNOT use plywood because the router will tear it up and then you will be really sad!
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/emp002.jpg)
Once you have your particle board you can do this:
1. If you are copying a PBass or a JBass lay it in the lower left corner and trace the outline with a pencil. Be steady.
2. If you are working from a sketch then draw a square 19" tall by 14" wide.
3. In either case draw a line down the middle with your yard stick. Use the Sharpie that way it doesn't get lost if you make changes.
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/emp003.jpg)
4. Make a mark on the center line 1" from the bottom. Note that this is for the Bridge Screws. Or copy your bass.
5. Measure up 9" make a mark this is for the bottom of Fretboard. Or copy your bass.
6. Make the mark about 2 3/8 wide. This is the average size for a 4 string. Don't worry we'll get REAL specific about that later.
7. Now start sketching in your design with a pencil. Try and get lines to flow. Don't worry. Just keep at it. Look at all the erasing I did.
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/emp004.jpg)
When you are happy. Do the final lines with your Sharpie. Erase the pencil lines as much as possible.
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/emp005.jpg)
Next we'll do the neck. Cya. God loves you!
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God Bless your ministry bro!!!!!
I'm picking up my finial woods to make mine soon.
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OoooooWeeeeeee!!! Those basses are off the hook. I may have to start a new hobby.
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hey bassksun would i need a table band saw or portable one. trying to get the proper tools. thanks ken!
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hey bassksun would i need a table band saw or portable one. trying to get the proper tools. thanks ken!
Ken-
A Table Band Saw would be ideal. A portable one next. A jig saw (ugh) last or never. I bought this one http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921400000P?vName=Tools (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921400000P?vName=Tools) and have made 15 Basses on it!
Not bad for under $200 and it's portable. ;D
BKS
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This is a great thread, I really LOVE to see how you did the EUB!
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This is a great thread, I really LOVE to see how you did the EUB!
Whoa! Mrs. BKS demanded (She Must Be Obeyed!) that I make the next EUB! Moses II :o
Your timing couldn't be better.
Peace
bks
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I was just curious as to what the particle board is used for? a template and not the body right? I just want clarification.
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I was just curious as to what the particle board is used for? a template and not the body right? I just want clarification.
Templates Only.
If I EVER ask or suggest that anything other than templates be made from particle board you may fly to Vegas at my expense and use the most suitable method of physical correction you feel appropriate. :D
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Cool, because I never heard of that being a body for an instrument. I thought maybe you can up with something new. ;D
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Bless God. He is worthy!
Step 3 Neck Template. DANGER!
There is no slacking in this area. A bad neck can happen fast. Worse than that; you won't know how bad your neck is until you are done! Trust me...been there...lost sleep.
I would strongly advise that you read this from Stew-Mac http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Neck_relief,_building_and_repair/i-5200.html (http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Neck_relief,_building_and_repair/i-5200.html) because it's easy and concise.
OK. Let's plan the neck.
"Empowered" is a 34" scale bass. It's a 4 string. Let's use some Fender specs: Standard 20 frets, Width at nut 1-5/8" (41.28mm), Width at 20th fret 2-1/2" (63.50mm).
Now, we need to calculate how the neck shape relates to the body. This is done by using a fret calculator. You can use this one: http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator/ (http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator/) just put in 20 frets at 34" scale and calculate.
OK. The calculator says 35" from the nut to the last row of screws. That means my template has to be long enough to accomodate the length from the nut to the heel. This is a neck through so we can use a single template that will deal with that too.
Finally. Very importantly we have to make sure that the bass will balance. We don't want that uncomfortable neck dive.
Draw it out. Notice that I have a strong center line-CL.
Materials:
Pencil, Yardstick and Sharpie.
1. Measure in about 4" from the edge. Do this 3 times. Mark the CL with the Sharpie.
2. Measure 1/2" from the top of your board. Mark that as the NUT.
3. Measure 35" mark that as BRIDGE SCREWS.
4. Measure 17" from NUT mark this as BOTTOM 12th FRET
5. Measure 23 5/16" from NUT mark that as 20th FRET
6. Measure DOWN 1" from 20th FRET mark as HEEL
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_neck%20001.jpg)
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_neck%20002.jpg)
Draw in the widths of the neck measurments across the CL. Be sure to be as accurate as possible. Measure 3 Times!!!
Width at nut 1-5/8" (41.28mm) or 13/16" each side
Width at 20th fret 2-1/2" (63.50mm) or 1 1/4 each side
Heel 3 1/4" or 1 3/8" each side
At the HEEL mark make the line 3 1/4 wide. Make another mark lower so that you can make an even shape. This template will help us determine the width of the neck/body laminate.
Connect the dots.
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_neck%20004.jpg)
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_neck%20005.jpg)
Now do the Headstock. Using the Standard Fender proportions again...
1. Make a box 9" by 5"
2. Make a CL (of course)
3. Mark the bottom line NUT
4. Now take the exact same measurment from the NUT measurment off the NECK TEMPLATE mark that exactly off the CL.
5. Measure up 2" from the nut make a mark.
6. Measure 1 1/4" to the LEFT of the CL. Mark a mark called "E". This is for the E string.
7. From the E mark measure 3/4" to the LEFT. This is how much wood you HAVE to have to support the tuners. NOTE: Some builders may use less. But This is probably your first build..."crawl then walk".
8. Measure closer to the CL for each tuner above E. For example my A string is about 1 1/8" CLOSER to the CL. This will leave plenty of room for string clearance.
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_neck%20006.jpg)
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_neck%20007.jpg)
Now you get creative. Just be sure to leave at least 2 1/4" between tuners. Follow mine, create your own or copy your bass. Just make sure that you don't cross the CL!
Now let's cut.
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8/12/08
1 God, 1 Christ, 1 Spirit: What else do you REALLY need?
Now we can cut up our template. It is best to stay to outside of your line to the best of your ability. After you cut all of the pieces take some of the left over board and cut a few 1" by 7" pieces. These will be used to make design changes later on. I'll force a design change just to show you how I do it.
Important: This is where we make design changes.
If you don't like your design. Toss it and make another. But Remember; this is a template. It gives you a GENERAL IDEA of what your bass is shaping up to be.
Materials:
Band Saw, 60 grit Sand Paper, File, Dust Mask
Once you have cut everything sand the edges smooth. Start with the body. IMPORTANT: Keep the edges square, don't round them over. Wrap sandpaper over a block of wood for outside edge work. Wrap sandpaper around a spray can for inside work. Use a wood file for tight spots. Keep the edge square and your router will love you.
I get a lot of mileage out of a file like this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00931286000P (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00931286000P)
NOTE: Don't worry about the neck template being perfect. It will NOT be used for routing etc. It will be used for measuring. Also, I cut my body in half. Right down the CL. This gives me a little more room to maneuver.
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_neck_cut%20001.jpg)
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_neck_cut%20002.jpg)
NOTICE: The upper horn is in a direct line with the 12th fret. This will prevent neck dive.
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_neck_cut%20005.jpg)
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_neck_cut%20006.jpg)
Next Up Fun Stuff: Let's Talk Lumberrrrrr!
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The upper horn is in a direct line with the 12th fret. This will prevent neck dive.
I never noticed that.
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I never noticed that.
Yup. ;)
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basskun im in the progress as we speak starting the bass. one question dose the with of the nut matter if i want to do a five string ? peace ken.
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basskun im in the progress as we speak starting the bass. one question dose the with of the nut matter if i want to do a five string ? peace ken.
Ken-
Sure does matter.
Try out some 5vers see which neck you like. The popular Rondo SX 5 JBass has: Width of the neck at the nut: 1 3/4"; at the 20th fret: 2 9/16 " .
It's pretty popular. I have one. It's comfy.
God's Love
BKS
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8/13/08
BIBLE=Best Instructions Before Leaving Earth
Now that we have our templates cut and sanded let's go for some wood.
I. Wood and Tone
There are a lot of opinions out there about the value of what woods will provide what tone or coloration in your bass. I won't weigh in on the argument. We are making an electric bass not an acoustic. If you want, go to talkbass/luthier and do a search. You will be busy for a month.
II. Ash is not pretty; Swamp Ash is pretty.
I saw a piece of Burl Maple go for $1200. I also saw a piece of Burl Maple go for $50. The $1200 one was very beautiful, the $50 one was not as nice. But any piece of Burl Maple would be nice wouldn't it? There are no rules here. Let your pocket book and eye decide what you want. Ash may be just fine for your eye.
III. Size Matters
Most Solid Body electric basses are between 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 thick. Too much smaller and the pick up screws may go through, too much larger and only Hulk Hogan can play it. Also, you have to be careful that a dense wood meets thickness correctly. Imagine a solid piece of Walnut or Mahogany 1 3/4" thick!
IV. Buy the Board Foot not the Pre Cut
Board Foot is a term used to measure and sell wood. (1 bf = $x) For example, A pre cut slab of Mahogany may cost $60 on Ebay the same size slab costs $8.99 for 1 bf. So why don't people do it more? I don't know. I guess the storage, shipping, etc. are too much of a pain. At any rate we are looking to get our core wood at the best possible price and quality.
You can start shopping here if you want, http://www.woodfinder.com/marketplace.php (http://www.woodfinder.com/marketplace.php). There must 20 suppliers.
I do most of my shopping with Woodworkers Source http://www.woodworkerssource.com/index.php (http://www.woodworkerssource.com/index.php) There are hundreds more. I just like these guys. Do a search. Also, they have great tutorials! Go to the site and you can learn just about any thing.
OK for my version of empowered. I want a Figured Maple Top, Swamp Ash Body, Laminated Maple Neck with a Mahogany or whatever detail. Body is close to 1 1/2" thick.
Let's start with the neck. It's a neck through and I need to go from nut to bridge screws at 35". It has to be at least 3 1/4" wide. I need some length for the headstock-9". So at least 44" long. Now, I'm buying a board that I have to cut up to get 3 1/4" wide and 1 5/8 thick (room for error). Boards come in certain thicknesses.
These are:
4/4 = 13/16"
6/4 = 1-5/16"
8/4 = 1-13/16"
12/4 = 2-13/16"
I need a Hard Maple Board = 4/4 x 6" x 45" and a Mahogany Board 4/4 x 4" x 45"
I'll use the Woodworkers Board Foot Calculator
Hard Maple 1.88bf (use 2bf) X $6.99 ($7.00) + cutting .50 = $14.50
Mahogany 1.88bf (use 2bf) X $7.99 ($8.00) + cutting .50 = $16.50
Now the Body:
Empowered is 19" at the longest point. Each wing is 7" wide. I figure my top wood is going to be near 1/2" Easy. 6/4 X 20" x 15" = 3bf
3bf x $5 + .50 = $15.50
Ok so thats 15.50 + 14.50 + 16.50 = $46.50 before shipping. I've got enough for error and some left over if I need it or want to do nifty things. HA! 1 slab of wood on Ebay!
Next: Top Wood and Fretboard
bks
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I've got to see and hear this when you are finished. With you kicking this out so fast, it makes me wonder why some builders take 18 months to build an instrument. Yeah, I know all about the details and perfection that luthiers pride in their instruments, but this has me thinking. Keep up the work.
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I've got to see and hear this when you are finished. With you kicking this out so fast, it makes me wonder why some builders take 18 months to build an instrument. Yeah, I know all about the details and perfection that luthiers pride in their instruments, but this has me thinking. Keep up the work.
Thanks dd! I appreciate your support. This is a "Build Your Own" tutorial for "everyman" and I am excited for how it will sound too! Pray that OUR efforts are annoited.
The Luthier haters will be coming out soon enough. I've crossed a couple lines.
Peace of Christ
bks
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I've got to see and hear this when you are finished. With you kicking this out so fast, it makes me wonder why some builders take 18 months to build an instrument. Yeah, I know all about the details and perfection that luthiers pride in their instruments, but this has me thinking. Keep up the work.
Hah! Nah, it's not that they take that long to make, but if a builder has 50 basses on order sometimes the build times get stretched. I clock in around 6 months on average, but it's rare for me to go over 100 hrs in a bass, and the simpler ones take far less time. Factor in about 3-4 hrs per day dealing with phone calls and email, plus multiple spec changes from customers and the times get stretched big time. If I built an MDM start to finish I could knock it out in under three weeks, and that includes paint. Trouble is, backorders and interruptions are HUGE time killers. Given all I have to do, 4-6 months is about as quick as I can crank out an order, and I work super hard 7 days a week with long hours every day. Food for thought!
Bassksun, great post! Cross as many lines as you want, you'll get no grief from me! Very cool basses.
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plus multiple spec changes from customers and the times get stretched big time.
:( :( :( :(
;D ;D ;D ;D
With that being said....ROFL..i just sent you an EMAIL!!!
HAHAHA, what a coincidence..lol
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Hah! Nah, it's not that they take that long to make, but if a builder has 50 basses on order sometimes the build times get stretched. I clock in around 6 months on average, but it's rare for me to go over 100 hrs in a bass, and the simpler ones take far less time. Factor in about 3-4 hrs per day dealing with phone calls and email, plus multiple spec changes from customers and the times get stretched big time. If I built an MDM start to finish I could knock it out in under three weeks, and that includes paint. Trouble is, backorders and interruptions are HUGE time killers. Given all I have to do, 4-6 months is about as quick as I can crank out an order, and I work super hard 7 days a week with long hours every day. Food for thought!
Bassksun, great post! Cross as many lines as you want, you'll get no grief from me! Very cool basses.
Timmmmmm! Thanks!
Thanks for encouraging me! It's been what? 7 basses ago. I'm the guy in Vegas with the Bartolini problem.
Definately NOT a hater. Definately an honest builder. And I have said so before.
bks
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Timmmmmm! Thanks!
Thanks for encouraging me! It's been what? 7 basses ago. I'm the guy in Vegas with the Bartolini problem.
Definately NOT a hater. Definately an honest builder. And I have said so before.
bks
Of course I remember! I recall you being from Philly as well...
Very cool stuff, it's always cool to see different methods and build philosophies. I'll be checking in on the thread, keep up the great work!
Now if only I could get Jeremy to settle on an idea... ;)
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BASKUN I HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT THE SELECTING WOODS. WHEN YOU SAY A FIGURE MAPEL TOP. IS THAT THE TOP FINISH. AND WHEN YOU SAY LAMINATED NECK IS THAT THE NECK THROUGH PART WHERE THE EARS AND THE NECK OF THE BASS ARE GLUED TOGETHER. ALSO TO GET THE STRIPED LOOK, IS THAT TWO OR MORE WOODS GLUED TOGETHER.
PEACE KEN
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BASKUN I HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT THE SELECTING WOODS. WHEN YOU SAY A FIGURE MAPEL TOP. IS THAT THE TOP FINISH.
No sir. It is actually the wood. It is called "Figured Maple". The "Figure" can come in different types: Pillow (looks like little pillows), Tiger Stripe, Flamed, Quilted or just plain old figured. I ordered figured so, I'll post a pic.
AND WHEN YOU SAY LAMINATED NECK IS THAT THE NECK THROUGH PART WHERE THE EARS AND THE NECK OF THE BASS ARE GLUED TOGETHER..
Yes and Sort of Yes Sir. Read On.
ALSO TO GET THE STRIPED LOOK, IS THAT TWO OR MORE WOODS GLUED TOGETHER.
When we glue 2 or more woods together that is called a "laminate". Because we are not making a bolt on neck, we call it the neck laminate or neck lam. To get that striped look requires pieces that are sanded to a desired thickness. We are not going to that level on "Empowered". We are trying to keep materials under $300. BUT we will have at least 1 thick line because we will glue in a piece of Mahogany and some very fine lines caused by wood contrast.
OK?
Peace
BKS
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Now if only I could get Jeremy to settle on an idea... ;)
What's up wit dat? :-X
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Basskun, this is a FANTASTIC thread! I'll be watching closely...
Now if only I could get Jeremy to settle on an idea... ;)
LOL!!!!!! ;D ;D ;D
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Jeremy, let Tim build your bass!!!! ;D ;D ;D
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Jeremy, let Tim build your bass!!!! ;D ;D ;D
LOL, my main specs are finished, however I wanted a little something special on the back of the bass that Tim is working on.
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LOL, my main specs are finished, however I wanted a little something special on the back of the bass that Tim is working on.
I understand. My custom bass, when I start on one, will have my wife's name on it somewhere. Maybe even her picture.
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Maybe even her picture.
:o
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Bassksun....... THIS THREAD IS WAYYYYYY TOOO INTERESTING!!!
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Bassksun....... THIS THREAD IS WAYYYYYY TOOO INTERESTING!!!
I jussst love it!
pray 4 me...4 us...4 the world
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any new progress pictures?
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Yes sir! It will be posted sometime today...or tonight if you are east of the Sierras. ;)
Peace
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how thick are the body body blanks that you go with?
I have a blank right now that will be a wee bit to thick after I glue the top on, so I'm wondering how think you usually go for your final body thickness.
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1 1/2 to 1 3/4. Final Size. Better to have too much. You can always sand down.
This one started at 1 3/4" I sanded and used a hand plane on THE BACK to bring it to 1 5/8"
EVER MINDFUL of how much thickness I need for pick up screws and electronics. Also mindful of the top surface in relation to the TOP OF THE FRETBOARD...yikes what a pain.
Does that help?
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/nlou.jpg)
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8/18/08
"Celebrate God's gift to you. Your life!"
Well my buddies at Woodworkers Source http://www.woodworkerssource.com/index.php (http://www.woodworkerssource.com/index.php)
sent me some choice goodies.
Swamp Ash, Maple and Mahogany
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_lumber%20006.jpg)
I scored some Figured Maple for $25 on EBay. I drew this in as a complete top. I'll have another showing how to make wings.
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_lumber%20004.jpg)
Let's shop for a fretboard. How much will that cost? Oh about $30-$35 shipped.
These are my faves:
Luthiers Mercantile International http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/Secondproducthead.asp?CategoryName=Fingerboards (http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/Secondproducthead.asp?CategoryName=Fingerboards)
Allen Guitars http://www.allenguitar.com/fretbd_pre-slot.htm (http://www.allenguitar.com/fretbd_pre-slot.htm)
I think I'm going the Ebony one from Allen. Bass Scale Ebony R Ebony 34.000" Radius 16" Price: $37.00
16" Radius is pretty standard. Take "standard" with a grain of salt.
$$$ So far:
20 for Particle Board
63 for Lumber
40 Fingerboard
25 Maple TOP
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148.00
sweet.
Next Up:
Line it, Cut it, Glue it
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Wilser is a builder I've learned a lot from. He is a Worshipper OBTW.
Take a look at this in progress. Nice tutorial as well.
I can't wait to start mine!
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=404692 (http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=404692)
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Updates Please, I'm anxious to see how this turns out!!!!! ;D I'm not rushing you though. ;D
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Updates Please, I'm anxious to see how this turns out!!!!! ;D I'm not rushing you though. ;D
Sorry for the delay. 3 things slowed down the posting. Not the work.
1. Technical issues with LGM (Thanks! J-)
2. These next steps require LOTS of pics. I'm teaching beginners. They need mercy.
3. Fall out/Fall in with my Pastor and Worship Team.
Should get something up tonight or tomorrow depending where you are.
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I totally understand. I just had a meeting with my pastor and the head of the praise team last night. I retold her that I was removing myself from the ministry as a whole because of various reasons. Again, she wants me to stay. Well, my keyboard is setup at another ministry waiting for me on Sunday.
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I totally understand. I just had a meeting with my pastor and the head of the praise team last night. I retold her that I was removing myself from the ministry as a whole because of various reasons. Again, she wants me to stay. Well, my keyboard is setup at another ministry waiting for me on Sunday.
May the Lord bless your new ministry!
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yo! bassksun any progress on the bass. love to see more pics.
peace Ken!
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Gotta admit, I check this thread every day looking for an update. ;)
I'm watching with great anticipation, as I have a nice Fender Jazz Fretless neck that I'd love to put a custom body under! :D
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8/27/08
God is the LIFTER of MY HEAD Psalm 3:3
Sorry, I had to leave this project for a minute. God had other work for me to do.
Ok. Now that I have my wood I can plan the cut-up.
Materials:
Table Saw, Safety Glasses, Titebond Original or Premium Glue, 10 to 12 9" C-Clamps, Dust Mask, Prayer, Scrap 8' x 3" of Birch or Pine or Maple PLYWOOD WILL NOT WORK!!!
Empowered is going to have a top and the neck through will be seen from the other side. I started a second bass "Overcomer" that is just like this one BUT it has wings. I'll try to split the explanation as we go along.
Determining the neck height for Empowered:
Poor pic but you can see that there I measured and added the thickness of the ash body, the top plus 1/8" extra for the fretboard. This is what the working height of the neck will be. Later we will "relieve" or cut and plane an area for the top. My total thickness came to 1 3/4 + 1/8" or so.
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/NeckGlu%20040.jpg)
Now set up your table saw to cut 2 pieces of maple and 1 piece of Mahogany.
Set the blade height.
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_shop%20001.jpg)
Set the cut width.
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_shop%20002.jpg)
Let your neighbor sacrifice his fingers ;) 2 pieces of Maple
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_shop%20003.jpg)
Cut 1 piece of Mahogany
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_shop%20004.jpg)
Done!
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/NeckGlu%20042.jpg)
NOTE:Because this is a low budget 1st time project I eliminated adding thin stringers. If you want you can make them or buy them from any luthier store. At any rate now is the time to get them out.
Ok lets glue up. Notice how ran the glue line close to the edge? This will prevent gaps in the laminate. Also, I don't use a whole lot of glue. Too much glue will cause gaps and inconsistencies.
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/NeckGlu%20043.jpg)(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/NeckGlu%20044.jpg)
Now-This can be tricky.-Sandwich the boards together. Lay it over on its edge on a FLAT surface. You can cover your flat surface with waxed paper. Make sure everything is flush! Take the birch or whatever scrap and put it on both sides to protect the neck from the clamps. Clamp it. The wood will want to slide around. I usually gently clamp a piece of scrap across the ends to hold the lams in place. Some drill a hole at the head end and insert a nail. 1 Clamp for every inch or so.
See the glue squeeze out? Thats good! Not too tight or ALL of the glue will come out. Just give it a good hard tighten.
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/NeckGlu%20045.jpg)
I used about 14 clamps! YOU CAN NEVER HAVE TOO MANY CLAMPS!
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_shop%20008.jpg)
Let this dry over night.
"My Daddy is sooo cool."
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/daddyGirl.jpg)
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I think I want to force a change on the Empowered bass. This is the best time. Not Later after your builder has cut templates, ordered wood, etc. (Hint Hint)
I'm going to change the upper half. I'm going to add about 1/2" to it.
Get the template and draw a line at the point for change
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_shop%20005.jpg)
Cut it. Cut a piece of scrap to fit.
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_shop%20006.jpg)
Insert and glue.
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/empowered_shop%20007.jpg)
Sand the edge. That's all.
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NOTE:Because this is a low budget 1st time project I eliminated adding thin stringers. If you want you can make them or buy them from any luthier store. At any rate now is the time to get them out.
Not wanting to sound dumb, what are stringers ? I have an idea what they are, but not quite sure.
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NOTE:Because this is a low budget 1st time project I eliminated adding thin stringers. If you want you can make them or buy them from any luthier store. At any rate now is the time to get them out.
Not wanting to sound dumb, what are stringers ? I have an idea what they are, but not quite sure.
Ken-
I'm glad you asked! One of the things that I hoped for is that this thread would make it safe for folks to ask questions that they may not elswhere.
Take a look at this beautiful Alembic. See the Maple/Purpleheart/Maple/Purpleheart. The purpleheart and maple are stringers. Sometimes builders call them pinstripes. All it really is are thin pieces of a different wood laminated together.
(http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/alembic_1998_30607071)
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8/28/08
If Jesus were sitting next to you-would you recognize Him?
Ok Time to Shop. If you can't tell; I love shopping for parts!
We need to keep this first one in budget. I think you will be pleasantly surprised at certain lower priced parts. For example, Wilkinson stuff is good. It is not Gotoh. But still very usable. It's your $$.
4 tuners, bridge, strap buttons and knobs. I get these on Ebay. I use Ebayer Southeast Music. Good prices and Fast Shipping.
Pick up. I use Bestbassgear. Tim at Callo recommended Brian and I haven't looked back. I'm a Bartolini guy:MM4CBC(Classic Bass)-$95. Shoot me a PM if you are going to shop with Bestbassgear online.
Bass Truss Rod-StewMac or LMI. You can't go wrong.
MOP Dots and fret marker-StewMac or LMI
These are my usuals. Shop around if you like.
God Is Love
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I used best bass gear when I upgrading my electronics in my bass. Those guys are great to work with.
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I think it would be an awesome idea if you or someone would start a sticky thread about bass building\ modding I know most would be interested, I know I would be!
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I think it would be an awesome idea if you or someone would start a sticky thread about bass building\ modding I know most would be interested, I know I would be!
you just posted in the very thread you asked about.
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you just posted in the very thread you asked about.
Are you for real?
lol Yea, I replied to this on my phone, which showed me this was the newest post, it wasn't until I got home until I realized how silly I am.
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I would like to note 2 things (Sorry I didn't do this in the above posts but for some reason this forum wont let you go back and edit your own posts)
#1. Bassksun, you have got to be one of the funniest people whose posts I have read online, your little anecdotes and nuances are so funny, God has blessed you with a wonderful sense of humor.
#2. Thank God for you and your ministry and your willingness to share this with us, I have been wanting to build a bass for quite some time and have never known how. It really is a blessing what your doing.
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Anthym-
You are very welcome! This is a lot of fun for me.
God Bless
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A question. Why not build a guitar out of 1 solid piece of wood? Instead of taking 3 different kinds and gluing them together? I'm a newbie ;D
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A question. Why not build a guitar out of 1 solid piece of wood? Instead of taking 3 different kinds and gluing them together? I'm a newbie ;D
I got a question to piggy-back the above question - When you have a bass body that's not solid but glued together in layer (sorta like plywood), is that looked at as a "cheap" bass? I pieced together a bass that had the "plywood-like" layers (I posted pics earlier in this blog) and I did a black sunburst to hide the layers of wood shown from the sides.
I was just wondering, is that along the same lines as the basses with pinstripes and wings or is this something different?
I got another one I'm kinda working on (that's on hold) that has the layered wood. I was thinking of a way to hide the sides without doing another sunburst or should that even matter?
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I'll try to answer both questions.
"When you have a bass body that's not solid but glued together in layer (sorta like plywood), is that looked at as a "cheap" bass? I pieced together a bass that had the "plywood-like" layers (I posted pics earlier in this blog) and I did a black sunburst to hide the layers of wood shown from the sides."
Cheap is relative. How does the bass sound? What woods did you laminate? A Black burst is a great way to hide plywood layers and looks cool too.
Now. Multi layers can present a problem which why we have "Core Wood". Layers and layers, like plywood may be too soft or not dense enough. Ideally, you want good density without being too dense, too soft and too heavy. It also has an effect on the sound. Less dense woods absorb vibration, dense woods reflect vibration. Think of a room. Solid floor, walls and windows. Sound echoes. Everything is dense. Throw a carpet, a couch and couple of pillows in the room. The echo stops. The soft stuff does not reflect sound. The same is true of your instrument. Dense woods will reflect string vibration and the pick ups...well... pick up the string vibration. The more string vibration that the pick ups get the better. Of course it can go to extremes. Ever hear a Dan Armstrong Acrylic Bass, A Kramer Aluminum Neck Bass, or even a Carbon Fiber neck? All made from dense materials. Not warm. IMHO. But some folks like it.
"I was just wondering, is that along the same lines as the basses with pinstripes and wings or is this something different?"
Yes mostly and mostly no. Yes we are attaching wings to the sides. Yes the thin pinstriping is like a form of ply laminate. No. The wings we are attaching are solid wood that adds mass to the bass. Solid wood is the obvious thing here. Adding mass is the other. The thin pinstriping is of no consequence. There is not enough of it to make a diff. But the 3+ piece laminate in the neck, thats a different story.
Dense Maple and less dense Mahogany. Good balance. The neck shouldn't need any carbon for stiffness because the grains of the woods are different and run vertically.
"A question. Why not build a guitar out of 1 solid piece of wood? Instead of taking 3 different kinds and gluing them together? I'm a newbie "
Sure why not? It's been done before. I think there are a couple "Wishbasses" that are one piece. What a building pain! You will be carving more than cutting and shaping. What wood would you use? Itried to think of how I would make one. Maybe a solid piece of mahogany. The bass will probably end up in the +15 pd range! Heavy. Using different types of wood lets us exploit tonal qualities, various woods for different purposes and having a beautiful design.
"I got another one I'm kinda working on (that's on hold) that has the layered wood. I was thinking of a way to hide the sides without doing another sunburst or should that even matter?"
Once again, Yes and No. Yes it matters. Are the edges cool? I mean are they different types of wood of different thicknesses that may a nice pattern? If not. Then it's gonna be looking like Home Depot. Hide it!
Here's a new and old trick. When you laminate woods like that you expose the end grain which is very porous. If you try to paint it without sealing it, the pigment will absorb into the wood FASTER than the SURFACE. Leaving you with pits. Ugh! You can get a grain-filler from Stew-Mac or LMI. Or you can use shellac OR Ace Hardware Sanding Sealer (I love this stuff!). Then paint over it. You can seal off the edges and do some creative stuff. These folks at RE-Ranch http://www.reranch.com/index.htm (http://www.reranch.com/index.htm)have paints etc. and good tutorials.
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when i was checkin out a bass in GC today, i started noticing details that you mentioned in this tutorial that i never noticed before. So im sittin there staring at it picturing how it was put together. Good insight here. thanks bassksun.
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when i was checkin out a bass in GC today, i started noticing details that you mentioned in this tutorial that i never noticed before. So im sittin there staring at it picturing how it was put together. Good insight here. thanks bassksun.
Always a blessing and a personal pleasure to help.
Peace
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9/4/08
2 Cor 2:14 God always causes me to Triumph!
Now that everything is all glued up nice and tight. Go to this url:
http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/anckpr.htm (http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/anckpr.htm) This is also known as a SCARF JOINT.
This is a great tutorial, I'm going through Steps 1-4. I am going to change the 13 degree to 10 degrees.
Measure about 9 inches from the end of the neck lam. This is where the nut will be. Get your NECK TEMPLATE out and make sure that you have enough lumber. Draw in a 10 deg angle from the nut line
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_shop%20011.jpg)
Make the cut. This is tricky stuff. I used a band saw. Sometimes I'll use a table saw. Sometimes a Japanese Wood Saw. Clean up the surfaces just as described in the tutorial.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_shop%20012.jpg)
I use a small hand plane to clean up
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_neck_construction%20006.jpg)
Check for fit.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_shop%20013.jpg)
OK evrything is schmoove. I can flip it over just like in the tutorial and start gluing. It takes about 5 clamps to keep the 2 pieces from sliding around. NOTE: Some builders actually thin this piece out and finish the headstock at this point.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_shop%20015.jpg)
After the glue sets I can set up and begin to route the trussrod channel.
Lay the trussrod so that it is about 1/2" BEHIND the nut line. Make a mark where the trussrod ends.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_shop%20019.jpg)
Draw a centerline. Route the channel. The depth is going to be something near 1/2" Depends on your truss rod You can use a Router table, a router OR the Dremel Tool setup which I like. I can always see what is going on.
Remember: As you route don't try to take out too much. Gradually remove the wood.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_shop%20018.jpg)
After about 10 passes:
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_shop%20021.jpg)
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_shop%20022.jpg)
Get a little caulk and put it on the ends. NOT on the thread parts. This will keep the truss from rattling aroud.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_shop%20023.jpg)
Coming along...
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_neck_construction%20003.jpg)
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_neck_construction%20004.jpg)
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_neck_construction%20005.jpg)
Peace.
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I got a question about gluing wood: have you ever had the wood break off at a joint that you glue together? like the headstock or wings?
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I got a question about gluing wood: have you ever had the wood break off at a joint that you glue together? like the headstock or wings?
No. In all honesty I found it a little scary when I made my first one. I kept thinking that I was going to over tighten or drop it and the the head or wings will would snap off. :o Then I took a good look at a butcher block and a piece of plywood. Look closely at a butcher block made from laminated woods...not going to break very easily...even the thin ones. The glue and pressure create a bond stronger than the wood itself. Thats the concept behind wings and neck lams.
Now go to HD or Lowe's or where ever. Look at a piece of plywood. Try to bend it until it breaks. It takes a lot of force! Can't do it. Same idea. Laminated woods are stronger than individual woods.
I always wondered why those karate guys never try to break laminated woods with their head... ?/?
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I Received my top wood today.went with a flame maple that I found on eBay @$12.00 plus shipping. My other Woods will be in tomorrow. I ordered
a hard maple/purple heart for the neck laminates,and black walnut for the body. Man I fell like a kid on Christmas eve. javascript:void(0);
Grin
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I Received my top wood today.went with a flame maple that I found on eBay @$12.00 plus shipping. My other Woods will be in tomorrow. I ordered
a hard maple/purple heart for the neck laminates,and black walnut for the body. Man I fell like a kid on Christmas eve. javascript:void(0);
Grin
I know... ;D :D
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I don't mean to jump the gun in this thread but I was wondering, what do you do when it comes to your headstock decals? I couldn't make out from your pictures if you had any on your basses.
I tried making my own with packing tape - that didn't work out too well. I ended up redoing my headstock and going with some "peel & stick" letters from my local Targer store.
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Bassksun what is a usual height of a bass neck in the beginning stages.
before i cut my neck lams. i want to have at least the correct measurements. thanks ken
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I don't mean to jump the gun in this thread but I was wondering, what do you do when it comes to your headstock decals? I couldn't make out from your pictures if you had any on your basses.
I tried making my own with packing tape - that didn't work out too well. I ended up redoing my headstock and going with some "peel & stick" letters from my local Targer store.
Yep. I used the sticky letters from Michael's Art Supply. Found in the scrapbook aisle. They are really thin. Then sprayed with 2 coats of satin varnish.
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The reason I asked: I got a Yamaha neck with a crack in the headstock (http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn109/monivince/DSCN0756.jpg)
I was going to glue it back together. The crack from the front isn't as visible as it is from the back. (http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn109/monivince/DSCN0759.jpg)
I thought about putting some curly maple laminate on the headstock to cover up the crack on the front side of the headstock and maybe match the stain with the body. (http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn109/monivince/DSCN0762.jpg)
But if I do that, I'll lose my "Yamaha" decal. If I keep the decal, then the crack will show.
By the way, this is the body I was telling you about with the layered wood. (http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn109/monivince/DSCN0766.jpg)
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Niiiice Project! 8)
It ain't no Yammie anymore. It's a Momuzik! Grab some of that curly maple and get your Random Orbital Sander and glue. IMHO or if it were me...
This where you are headed no?
Glue and clamp that headstock. Then, sand down the front a bit so that you have all of the poly coat off. Glue and clamp some matching curly on there. Trim and drill the machine holes...9/16" me thinks. Same on the back.
Spray 1 coat of Minwax Satin Poly. Put a Momuzik lettering on it. Spray a couple of more coats...BAM! Beautiful.
I saw a ply bass the other day. His edge and back were black. I think the builder did it this way.
Tape and cover the top and/or back . Be patient and do a really good job. Then 5 coats of primer. 8 coats of black. He used Krylon. :o Let it dry for a week. Then he wiped on Minwax Gloss Varnish...good stuff. It dries in 3 hrs. Wait another 3 days or more polish. I wish I had a pic.
Once again...nice project. Be patient and you will be rewarded.
In Christ's Name
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Bassksun what is a usual height of a bass neck in the beginning stages.
before i cut my neck lams. i want to have at least the correct measurements. thanks ken
If you are doing Empowered with wings then you are going to be at 1 3/4" to start.
If you are making a separate bolt-on neck then 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" to start. I would suggest 1 1/4" Trim to 3/4" or so at the heel.
I like wide heavy necks so mine are always thicker.
I know there will be a lot of wood lost. But if this your first one so be it. Here's the learning logic (logic ?/? ) I'll cover this later too...
Neck making by hand can go wrong FAST! It is an art. Take off too much and your truss rod pokes through the back. Don't take off enough and you got a log.
There are other ways. But I use this because you can get a feel for it and there is room for mistakes.
Does this help?
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this helps alot thanks.
peace Ken !
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Thanks for the info. I never knew that you needed so many coats of primer and paint. So far I've only used wood stain (seems like most of your higher end basses have a wood finish).
After this, I'll have one more bass to assemble (maybe 2 if I find a neck) and 3 guitars.
BTW, I got the wood veneer from http://www.constantines.com/ (http://www.constantines.com/)
I don't know if you all ever heard of them; I got a 6ft X 2ft piece for less than $20 (not including S&H)
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9/10/08
I Am Free Indeed! John 8:36
Sorry its taking so long to get these pics up...well you know.
The neck channel has been routed to a depth even with the truss rod spine. Notice that I had to route out a larger cavity. I'm trying out a truss rod that has nut instead of an Allen head. (I'm gonna regret this..) The scarf joint has been glued and planed and sanded smooth. Lay the headstock template on and it's not wide enough...of course.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_neck_construction%20007.jpg)
I'll add a couple of strips of leftover mahogany to either side.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_neck_construction%20013.jpg)
While those pieces are drying I'm going cut out my top because I need to have a matching headplate.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_neck_construction%20011.jpg)
The piece from here will sanded down to about a 1/16". Note: You can do whatever you want for a head plate. You can get headstock lumber off Ebay, use a veneer or paint it. But you have to something because your scarf joint line will show. And thats just ugly. Be creative.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_neck_construction%20015.jpg)
Glue and clamp. Trim it when dry.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_neck_construction%20014.jpg)
Here I trimmed it to the desired thickness. You can measure the thickness on your own bass. It should come out to the 1/2" mark or so. Notice how much wood I left? This so I can have a "volute"; adds strength and looks cool too. You'll see when we carve the neck.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_neck_construction%20019a.jpg)
Attention here.
Now I laid it all out including the body pieces. You can see where I added some strips of wood to the sides of the neck. That is because the width of the neck is a hair too narrow for the width of my fretboard. You could use leftover maple or mahogany or whatever HARDWOOD you have. I had some Korina scraps lying around so I'm going use it here and other places.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_neck_construction%20020.jpg)
Now it's time to trim your fretboard. Note:There are different ways to deal with this. Some people prefer to trim the neck according to the template first and glue on the fretboard and trim to size. I work the other way. Trim the fretboard first and then the neck. It is a little easier because its easier to fix problems on the neck from a bad router job. A bad rout on your fretboard and it's toast.
Be sure to tape your fretboard before you cut.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_neck_construction%20023.jpg)
Ok laid up and ready to glue.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_neck_construction%20022.jpg)
I'll get those pics up asap.
Peace and God's Love on you.
bks
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This bass is finally moving along...My wife is gonna kill me
4 string Fretless.
Walnut top and back
Poplar core
Active MM 3 band Stingray Pre-Amp
Matching pup cover
Seymour Duncan Basslines MM pup
Bubinga FB
Maple inlay
Ziricote fretlines
Anigre/Maple/Anigre/Maple/Anigre Neck
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/apostle%20002.jpg)
(http://members.cox.net/michael.webb/pic/apostle%20003.jpg)
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So if I wanted to build one and keep it light, would I need to put basswood as the core?
Thanks for the great lesson.
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So if I wanted to build one and keep it light, would I need to put basswood as the core?
Thanks for the great lesson.
You're welcome. Basswood or Poplar.
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i Found A Music Msn Style Pick up For A Six String Bass. the question is could I use two of them on the same bass. because i seen Som of the Music man has 1 pick up and some of them have two . If i Use Just one would the Pickup be place at equal distance between the neck and the bridge. As you can tell i really love the music msn Sound. Also wanted to know where I could I find a music man pre-amp i saw you use one on one of your basses.
Thanks!
Ken
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i Found A Music Msn Style Pick up For A Six String Bass. the question is could I use two of them on the same bass. because i seen Som of the Music man has 1 pick up and some of them have two . If i Use Just one would the Pickup be place at equal distance between the neck and the bridge. As you can tell i really love the music msn Sound. Also wanted to know where I could I find a music man pre-amp i saw you use one on one of your basses.
Thanks!
Ken
Ken-
Sure. Why not? I love the "beefy" look and sound of dual MM pups. The MM sound is great for Gospel! I just don't like MM basses... :-\ Look at some Wals too. Although Wal basses are special handmade. The dual MM style is really obvious.
If you use just 1 the measurement is: 13 1/8" from center of 12th fret to center of pup.
I got real lucky with finding a MM Pre-amp. Not many on the market and can be really expensive from MM. A lot of people keep the pre and dump the pups. Before you consider your Pre-Amp, look at your pups. Are they dual coil? Do you want a 2band or 3band?
If you can't get a MM pre then consider a Seymour-Duncan replacement. IMHO it's the closest to MM. There may be others. Drop Brian at Bestbassgear a note and get his opinion and then BUY from him.
Peace
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9/22/08
Jesus said, Suffer the little children unto me. Are you too grown up for Jesus?
Sorry it's taking so long to get the pics up.
Lay the truss rod in place and set it with a little caulk. Be careful to not let the caulk drip onto the threads. This keeps the truss in place and not rattle around later.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/neck%20carve%20001.jpg)
I taped the edges of the fretboard to keep the glue from going onto the sides. You gotta do this because it's going to be part of routing the neck.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/neck%20carve%20002.jpg)
Now tape over the truss rod to keep glue from dripping down in there. NOTE:Tape only wide enough to cover the truss rod. If the tape is too wide then you might cover area that is needed to glue the fretboard.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/neck%20carve%20006.jpg)
Use a lot of clamps and glue it down.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/neck%20carve%20007.jpg)
When the glue dries. Remove the tape then rout the edges.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/neck%20carve%20010.jpg)
Ok now start to carve the neck.
Here are some tutorials:
http://home.zonnet.nl/wilmaremy/neck2.html (http://home.zonnet.nl/wilmaremy/neck2.html)
http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/anckpr.htm (http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/anckpr.htm)
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=250978 (http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=250978)
I'm going to stop about halfway and attach the body.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/neck%20carve%20012.jpg)
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/neck%20carve%20013.jpg)
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Just curious - Is anybody else planning on posting some pics of what you've done so far?
For now, I'm just taking notes (till I get my money right).
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I plan on posting some pics but im still getting pices. I'm still getting my money together also.
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9/23/08
Job: "I've come to the end of my understanding, and I leave it at that. My very existence is Yours, O God. It's Yours to unravel the mystery, to
track the labyrinthine ways, to handle the profound, to know the reasons behind the inexplicable events of my life."
Well, Bros and Sises; just 2 more phases after this to go...or 2 days about 24hrs. worth of work after this one to go.
After attaching the body wings we need to lay out the stuff.
I'm using individual bridges so that creates special problems. More on that later. That silver thing is a template for the electronics cover. I'll cut one out of scrap. I don't want to use plastic.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_ending%20008.jpg)
After a rough idea of where everything goes; I used a sharpie to draw direction lines for the ground and pup wiring channels. Notice the wood cover.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_ending%20009.jpg)
Hog out the electronics cavity with a Forstner bit. Also, the drill holes go ALL the WAY through to the other side.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_ending%20010.jpg)
Now I put the top back on. Time to rout for the pups. The plastic PBass Pup template is from Stew-Mac. The MM/EMG style pup is an Alnico pup from I dunno where. It weighs a ton! I found another one on the net for like $12 and it has a funky sound. So, I bought another. Haven't seen them since.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_ending%20011.jpg)
Rout the top and put it back on. Looks like PBass pup lined up ok. The MM/EMG is off. No Prob just draw the correct line.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_ending%20012.jpg)
Take the top off again... ::)
I used a 12" drill bit to drill the wiring channels. I'm using individual bridges so I have to ground them. Ace hardware has cheap brass and copper stock. I soldered a wire to one end. Cut the metal to fit. Routed a little space for it to lay in. Now when I screw in the individual bridges the screws will go into this and be grounded. Cool huh? 8)
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_ending%20018.jpg)
Stand back take a look. Groovy.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_ending%20019.jpg)
It's all good. So I can glue the top back on...finally! Flip the bass over and round over the edges with a.........you guessed it a roundover router bit. Remember I stopped at about halfway with the neck carving? Now I can finish that because you can feather the joints and get a feel for proportions onces everything is together. 2 indispensible tools for making your own necks. A combo file and a spokeshave or draw plane. The spoke shave is for rounding. It cannot make flat surfaces.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_ending%20021.jpg)
I used nails to line up the electronics cover. I'll route out a little shelf so that the cover sits flat.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_ending%20022.jpg)
I put a half round bit on my router so that I could remove wood for the belly cut.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_ending%20023.jpg)
Same thing for the arm rest.
(http://members.cox.net/nancylou1/empowered_ending%20025.jpg)
Now I'll sand and detail with 150 grit and then 220 grit. If you don't have an orbital sander then get some Advil for your elbow.
Once it's all sanded down I'll put on a coat of stain and Tung Oil and varnish. I'll show you how to make the grain "pop". That's next. Then frets and electronics.
God is Love
BKS
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Just curious - Is anybody else planning on posting some pics of what you've done so far?
For now, I'm just taking notes (till I get my money right).
I'm building one from parts right now, I'm waiting on the EUB lessons. ;D
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I'm waiting on the EUB lessons. ;D
:o
;)
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:o
;)
Yo - no pressure... ;)
Seriously though, I'd been considering building me an EUB that uses an Upright fingerboard and has the 3/4 bass scale.. so I've been looking at them for a while now.
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Yep. The EUB is a deep and serious project. And Expensive. 3/4 scale is the way to go. With the neck and fingerboard you can learn to arco (bow). You can go to:Bob Gollihur http://www.gollihurmusic.com/index.cfm (http://www.gollihurmusic.com/index.cfm)for everything you need. The EUB will change EVERYTHING about your music for the better.
As soon as I get the cash...
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?/? Hi Basskun,
Found your testimony inspiraing. I too have been bit by the bass building bug. I don't have a lot of tools but I have cobbled togeather a body using a scroll saw, a vairble speed sander and some clamps. The top is flammed ash and the back a maple. The shape is an alembic styled body. My questions is on routing. I'm a little worried about doing the routing. I have a black and decker dremel like tool and was wondering will this do when it comes to doing the routing? Any suggestions would be helpful.
Be Blessed!
C Flowers
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?/? Hi Basskun,
Found your testimony inspiraing. I too have been bit by the bass building bug. I don't have a lot of tools but I have cobbled togeather a body using a scroll saw, a vairble speed sander and some clamps. The top is flammed ash and the back a maple. The shape is an alembic styled body. My questions is on routing. I'm a little worried about doing the routing. I have a black and decker dremel like tool and was wondering will this do when it comes to doing the routing? Any suggestions would be helpful.
Be Blessed!
C Flowers
Blessings back at you!
Good to be worried about the router. No a dremel router absolutely will not do. You need a good woodworker's router. Go to Sears, HD or Lowes and get one. Get a straight bits and roundover bits. It's best to buy these in a kit where get a variety.
Much Love.
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any progression bassksun?
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any progression bassksun?
Oh yes. I just haven't had the time to upload and write out the tutorial. 12hr shifts are killing me. I'll get them up soon. It's a real pretty bass.
OBTW Do you know how to record to a computer?
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Oh yes. I just haven't had the time to upload and write out the tutorial. 12hr shifts are killing me. I'll get them up soon. It's a real pretty bass.
OBTW Do you know how to record to a computer?
There are many ways to record to a system, from an instrument, the easiest way is directly into the mic input of the computer. There are also many devices that have instrument input jacks that connect to the computer via USB or Firewire...
I think one of the simplest solutions is something like a "lightsnake" do a google search on it. It is basically a Instrument jack on one end, and a USB cable on the other.
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I have one word. AMAZING...!!! :o ;D
- tO GoD B tHA gLOrY
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Hi guys :)
Im just starting this week with the bass, my church need a bassman urgent so I got to learn in less than 2 months, pray for me ^^
God bless you all
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Anybody got any before, during or after pics?
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Praise God! The holidays are coming and I can I have more time to post.
Still working 2 jobs plus playing. But due to the economy i lost my shop and business. Another "But". When 1 door closes God opens another. I'll post the 2 finished basses we started, a Bill Fitzmaurice Cab and maybe we'll have some budget mods.
Has anyone had the $$ and time to build? I think there is an electric upright out there!
Love
BKS
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...Has anyone had the $$ and time to build? ...
You started this thread the very next month after my wife retired from the navy. When she retired, money got tight. Then with the economy and gas prices at that time - you know the rest. So I haven't had the money to build but I am taking notes so when I do get my money right, I'll do it.
..I'll post the 2 finished basses we started, a Bill Fitzmaurice Cab and maybe we'll have some budget mods...
You do cabs too?
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You started this thread the very next month after my wife retired from the navy. When she retired, money got tight. Then with the economy and gas prices at that time - you know the rest. So I haven't had the money to build but I am taking notes so when I do get my money right, I'll do it.
You do cabs too?
Yep. I built a BF Cab-Omni 12 and now I'm working on a second one to use as a sub. Check it out at http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/index.html (http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/index.html)
Praise!
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Oh Bassksun where are you? I miss your quirkyness and your bass tips, just wondering when we will get to see the finished product..
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Oh Bassksun where are you? I miss your quirkyness and your bass tips, just wondering when we will get to see the finished product..
I thought it was a couple of you all building basses along with this thread. I've been waiting to see some pics.
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Hi sir
Blessed day
I'm Jane and I am also A Musician like you and i play the bass.
I'm currently in the church and the young people is aiming for a bass guitar for the Church.
are u selling bass guitar sir?