Organ Models

[musicmajordjs]

Which models do you all like the best and which do you currently play

[musicmajordjs]

Wow  in the organ room people dont want to talk about organs

[sonicfoxbody]

For the money I like an a100, can be had cheaply and sounds great. Of course everyone loves a B3 but everyone who sells them are either extremely proud of them with their price tag or they're 'worn out' I currently play with a alesis and a VOCE Micro B. Soon to upgrade to a Nord C1 (I have to remain portable as I only gig, I don't have a home church). If I were to buy a console organ it'd definately be a C3 C2 or a100 dollar for dollar they're the best bang for your buck rather than a "Well used B3"

[docjohn]

hey Sonic,have you played a C1 yet? hear they are improved over the 61 sound,so it's gotta be awesome.I use a voce V3,which is pretty cool.Our MOM just got a XS 6 motif ,.the sounds are KILLER.

[RMS2003]

Which models do you all like the best and which do you currently play

I've played C3's, B3's, and even an A100. As of yesterday, I now officially own a 1945 Hammond CV. I like them all. Every Hammond I've played has its own distinct tone. They produce the same general tone, but each one seems to have different nuances that make me say "oh I like this C3 better than that C3 over there". I haven't had a chance to actually play my CV yet, but I've fooled around a little on it. So far I'm in love with the tone. It does have the infamous B3 tone we all know and love. If you can deal with the lack of percussion and split vibrato/chorus, and ratcheted drawbars, it's a great organ and I'm proud to own this true piece of heartwork.

Okay, now I gotta show off my new baby. 

http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/1598/cv001gw7.jpg
http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/3035/cv009id0.jpg

[themidiroom]

I've played C3's, B3's, and even an A100. As of yesterday, I now officially own a 1945 Hammond CV. I like them all. Every Hammond I've played has its own distinct tone. They produce the same general tone, but each one seems to have different nuances that make me say "oh I like this C3 better than that C3 over there". I haven't had a chance to actually play my CV yet, but I've fooled around a little on it. So far I'm in love with the tone. It does have the infamous B3 tone we all know and love. If you can deal with the lack of percussion and split vibrato/chorus, and ratcheted drawbars, it's a great organ and I'm proud to own this true piece of heartwork.

I play a B3 at church and I have a A100 at home.  I also have a Korg CX3 that I take to gigs sometimes.  A couple bands I play with do blues and jazz, so it comes in handy.  Like RMS said, every Hammond is different.  I like the key action on the organ at church more than the one at home.  My organ keys are tighter for some reason.  Oh, I might be wrong but I don't think the racheting drawbars came until the late 60's

[under13]

  Oh, I might be wrong but I don't think the racheting drawbars came until the late 60's

The ratchet drawbars were on the early models like the BV, CV and model D. Those were made up until 1949, then then they started making the B2 etc

I HATE the ratchet drawbars!

My favorite model is the A-105. It looks just like the C3, but has internal speakers and reverb just like an A-100.

[themidiroom]

The ratchet drawbars were on the early models like the BV, CV and model D. Those were made up until 1949, then then they started making the B2 etc

I HATE the ratchet drawbars!

My favorite model is the A-105. It looks just like the C3, but has internal speakers and reverb just like an A-100.

The only drawbars I know of are the smooth ones and the rachet style.  Am I missing something?  The B3 at church is a 1969 model and has the rachet drawbars.

[under13]

The only drawbars I know of are the smooth ones and the rachet style.  Am I missing something?  The B3 at church is a 1969 model and has the rachet drawbars.

Thats impossible, unless somebody swapped them from an older organ. I think the C2s and B2s might not have smooth drawbars. Does your organ have percussion? if not it may be a B2, which explains the drawbars The ratchet ones are the ones that stop after each number when you pull them out. It makes it very hard to quickly change registrations.

[themidiroom]

Thats impossible, unless somebody swapped them from an older organ. I think the C2s and B2s might not have smooth drawbars. Does your organ have percussion? if not it may be a B2, which explains the drawbars The ratchet ones are the ones that stop after each number when you pull them out. It makes it very hard to quickly change registrations.

The organ at church is definately a B3 and has the racheting drawbars.  I checked the serial number with Tonewheel General and it's a 1969 model.

[under13]

The organ at church is definately a B3 and has the racheting drawbars.  I checked the serial number with Tonewheel General and it's a 1969 model.

Thats wierd dude.

[themidiroom]

Thats wierd dude.

They also have the engraving on the drawbar fronts.

[under13]

They also have the engraving on the drawbar fronts.

That makes it even wierder, cuz only the newer ones have engraved drawbars. I truly doubt you have true ratchet style drawbars. Are you able to position the drawbars between the numbers or only exactly on the numbers? Because the ratchet ones only allow you to put then in 9 positions, unlike the new ones.

[musiqisme26]

The organ at church is definately a B3 and has the racheting drawbars.  I checked the serial number with Tonewheel General and it's a 1969 model.

it could also be that your organ is not completely original as far as the parts for the particular model


i know a guy that buys junked b3's and use a100 parts and sells them as genuine b3's so u never know

[themidiroom]

That makes it even wierder, cuz only the newer ones have engraved drawbars. I truly doubt you have true ratchet style drawbars. Are you able to position the drawbars between the numbers or only exactly on the numbers? Because the ratchet ones only allow you to put then in 9 positions, unlike the new ones.

You can put a drawbar inbetween numbers but I was under the impression the racheting drawbars were the ones that have the detent(click) at each number.  I could be wrong on that.  I haven't played on a Hammond older than 1960.  As far as the parts, just about everything on the B3, C3, and A100 are interchangeable.

[bluemagic]

You're right midi, the racheting drawbars are the ones that have the detent (i.e., clicks or stops) on each number.  However, if you position the drawbarbar in between the clicks you shouldn't get any sound.  Whereas the smooth drawbars are "infinitely" adjustable and the particular harmonic sound is present regardless of position.

From what I've read on the Internet, ratchet type drawbars were used up until mid-1954 and then Hammond switched to the smooth type for both console and spinet organs.  I'm also surprised that your 1969 B3 has the ratchet type; it may have been modified in the past by a previous owner. 

I own a Hammond C2 (with TREK II percussion and 145 Leslie) and it has the detent type.  I only paid $975 for it back in 1987 which makes it one of the best investments I've ever made.  I wouldn't sell it for any price but I must admit the $200 Native Instruments B4 Organ Simulation Software sounds very impressive.

[RMS2003]

Smooth drawbars will click a little bit, but they are also continuous contact which means the tone is not interrupted between drawbar numbers. Hop on that B3 you play and take any drawbar and go from 0 to 8 and see if you lose the tone while pulling out the drawbar. If so, you have ratcheted drawbars.

I am definitely not a fan of ratcheted drawbars either. They are hard to adjust and they have to be set just right or you won't get any tone. It's not a priority right now to make any changes to my CV's drawbars, but eventually I will get the smooth drawbars kit from Smooth Move Products.

[themidiroom]

The drawbars on my organ as well as the ones at church must be the smooth type; even though they click at each number.  The tone is continuous.  Thanks for all the info.

[docjohn]

when it comes to B's ,you can never be to  sure.Played a "B3" in what appeared to be an "A" case;it was physically  4" narrower than a real B.some of what these cats do in swapping cases and building organs out of junkers,etc amazes me.

[themidiroom]

when it comes to B's ,you can never be to  sure.Played a "B3" in what appeared to be an "A" case;it was physically  4" narrower than a real B.some of what these cats do in swapping cases and building organs out of junkers,etc amazes me.

The folks I bought my A100 from purchased it from the original owner in the hopes they could chop it.  I guess they didn't realize an A chassis isn't good for that mainly because the pre-amp sits under the tone generator as opposed to behind it in the B and C chassis.  I haven't ever measured the width, but I can see how the A100 might be narrower due to the thickness of the wood sides on the B3.